We did it again – turning on the windshield wipers when we meant to switch on the turn signal. My sister and I were still getting used to driving on the left-hand side of the road, which made for an interesting 2.5-hour drive from Kingston to Treasure Beach. Before visiting Treasure Beach, I didn’t know much about it except that it was on the South Coast of Jamaica in St. Elizabeth and was home to the famous Jake’s Hotel.
We arrived at Lashings Boutique Hotel in Treasure Beach well after dark, and we were famished. Fortunately, their restaurant (Treetop Bar and Grill) was still open, even though I couldn’t tell as I passed by the two dogs resting by the side of the steps leading up to the restaurant. (I must say those dogs looked like they’d been eating very well, unlike the ones we saw walking around town the next day looking like they were on a never-ending quest for table scraps). I ordered the jerk shrimp, while my sister opted for the brown stew chicken (both served with rice and peas, steamed vegetables, and fried plantain). With every bite I took, I heard my tastebuds express their gratitude, and as soon as I took the last bite, I was ready to turn in.
At the entrance to our room were two large wooden doors outfitted with shutters from top to bottom, giving us the option to control how much or how little light (and air) came through. Our source of “air conditioning” was the ceiling fan with several large wooden blades shaped like palm leaves. With the temperatures at night averaging 73 degrees in March, we survived without the air conditioner and found the fan sufficient for our 2-night stay. The floors throughout the room were polished concrete, and there was a wall constructed out of wooden planks that offered privacy to the open plan bathroom featuring a walk-in rain shower. Overall, the room was very spacious; I was impressed with the design and layout – it was simple but still had personality – rustic-chic, bringing elements of the outdoors inside.
The following morning I explored the property some more (well, only the pool and the community room). The property was so serene; I felt like I could hear the sea waves rushing to shore as I stood on a ledge above the hotel pool and took in the spectacular 360-degree views of the lush vegetation and the crystal blue sea as far as the eye could gaze.
The hotel was definitely off the beaten path, but that didn’t pose too much of a problem. The closest beach is approximately 2 km (1.2 mi) away at Calabash Bay which isn’t a far distance, but I’d suggest taking an air-conditioned cab ride instead of walking in the hot sun.
While we sat at the Treetop Bar, contemplating what we wanted to do that afternoon, we finally decided on the suggestion from one of the employees. The hotel made all the arrangements for our afternoon excursion, and before we knew it, we were in a cab heading toward Frenchman’s Bay to meet our boat transport for our trip to Floyd’s Pelican Bar.
When you’re in Treasure Beach, Floyd’s Pelican Bar is one place you must go. It sits on stilts in Parottee Bay, St. Elizabeth so is only accessible via boat. Surprisingly, the water around the bar is shallow; it’s not uncommon to see visitors taking a dip in the water at some point during their time at the Pelican Bar, so make sure and pack your swim gear.
The bartender at Pelican Bar claimed to be the best bartender in Jamaica, which I found amusing considering there were only three drinks on the menu, and only one of those drinks was a mixed drink. The food menu, much like the drink menu, is limited, but the chef serves up tasty dishes featuring whatever lobster and fish they catch for the day. The “kitchen” closes whenever they’ve sold out of the day’s catch, so it’s best to plan a visit to Pelican Bar for mid-morning/early afternoon. Unfortunately, we didn’t realize this until after the fact. By the time we finished taking pictures and were ready to order something to eat, we found out that they were no longer selling food. While somewhat disappointed, this didn’t prevent us from enjoying the rest of our time there. The bartender served us our drinks, and we made ourselves comfortable on one of the several benches covered with names carved out over the years by visitors. With some familiar dancehall tunes from the late ’90s/ early ’00s playing in the background, we sipped on our drinks, chatted for a few minutes with some other folks on vacation, and watched the sun begin to make its descent on the horizon. When the sun started to set, that was our cue to say goodbye to the Pelican Bar. We jetted back to shore while watching the remainder of the sunset, taking in the last view of the Pelican Bar behind us. Once we were back onshore, we headed straight to Jack Sprat.
Everything on the menu at Jack Sprat is a must-try. Their menu offers a range of mouth-watering dishes from pizzas with various toppings; to wings, burgers, chicken, and seafood – all prepared using seasoning and cooking techniques most popular on the island, and sides that are uniquely Jamaican. For starters, we feasted on homemade pumpkin soup. Now let me tell you about when Jamaicans make soup; we’re not talking about basic broth and noodles, we’re talking about a well-seasoned liquid base filled with ground provisions, dumpling, peas, and various vegetables; or a combination of any of the above cooked together with a choice of beef, chicken, fish, or goat. The soup is often-times the main meal, but not that night.
Being the shrimp lover that I am, my main course that evening was the brown stew shrimp with steamed vegetables and fried bammy; to drink – none other than a bottle of Ting! My sister had the brown stew snapper. As we sat at one of the several dining tables located on the grounds outdoors, we enjoyed the rest of our meal while listening to songs from the ever-popular “Moving Away Riddim” playing on the speakers – a perfect end to our afternoon on the sea.
We couldn’t get enough of Jack Sprat. The next day before heading back to Kingston, we stopped there for lunch. Looking around, I could see what I was too hungry to notice the night before. The album art hanging on the walls and music records all telling the story of Jamaican music – from ska, rocksteady, reggae, dub, dancehall, and ragga. “Can’t Be My Lover” by John Legend featuring Buju Banton was playing in the background, a few locals were sitting by the bar, some were dining-in for lunch, and a few were sitting at the table outside playing dominos. I could see why Jack Sprat earned its reputation as the community restaurant and the main local hang-out spot.
Jamaica’s first feature film 
There is one more place in the area worth mentioning. About 15 km east of Treasure Beach is Lovers’ Leap, named after two slave lovers from the 18th century. Legend has it that their slave master took a liking to the girl and arranged for her lover to be sold. The slaves fled but were eventually chased to the edge of a cliff. Rather than be captured and separated, or worse, they chose to end their lives by jumping off the cliff together – a cliff that’s 1700ft above sea level. (As seen below – view from top of the cliff at Lovers’ Leap)
Treasure Beach is not only home to Jack Sprat and Floyd’s Pelican Bar but is also home to the world’s oldest off-road triathlon and the Calabash International Literary Festival. The triathlon takes place annually, whereas the festival is held every two years and draws thousands of locally and internationally renowned authors and readers.
If you ever want to experience a getaway in Jamaica that is off the beaten path or need a vacation from your vacation, Treasure Beach is a great option. It offers a choice of boutique lodgings, a unique on-the-water experience, a restaurant that truly lives up to its reputation, is only a short drive away from Lovers’ Leap (one of the best panoramic views on the island), and if you visit at the right time of year, will see literary talent from around the world. One other suggestion before I leave you to start planning your trip to Treasure Beach – when renting a vehicle to travel in the area, I suggest an SUV. It makes for a more comfortable ride as you maneuver roads in desperate need of repair (and I am so glad we did!)
